New Year’s Caribbean Enchantment

Barbados has retained many of the trappings of its British colonial heritage. Judges and barristers wear proper robes and wigs, police don helmets styled after London bobbies and cricket remains a national passion. Barbados also has all the sporting appeal of the rest of the Caribbean, with pristine beaches, powerful surf and crystal clear waters. Brightly colored homes and hibiscus flowers mingle with mahogany trees and English churches dating back to the 17th century.

This is the island’s yachting center, quieter and less crowded than the main port of Castries. You can visit the island’s “drive-in” volcano at Soufriere, view the iconic peaks of the Pitons or perhaps snorkel at Pigeon Island, one of Jacques Cousteau’s favorite dive spots.

Antigua is blessed with an abundance of shining white beaches, and many of these have sprouted top-end resort hotels that engender golf courses and other amenities counted among the best in the Caribbean. A pleasant drive up through farms and tiny villages leads to the commanding fortress on Shirley Heights, from which you can survey the town and the harbor of Nelson’s Dockyard across the island. Once a carenage for British frigates, today it is an enclave of shops and restaurants.

St. John is the smallest of the three major U.S. Virgin Islands. Some two-thirds of its area, and large stretches of its coastal waters, are now included in the Virgin Islands National Park. It was established in 1956 on the initiative of Laurence Rockefeller, who bought this former sugar island and donated the land to the American people. St. John is now a great attraction for nature lovers and diving enthusiasts, with its small population living mainly from tourism.

Puerto Rico has been voluntarily associated with the United States since it was ceded by Spain in 1898. In 1952, this island country became a self-governing commonwealth territory of the United States. The capital, San Juan, is a teeming city of over 1.5 million. Remnants of colonial architecture stand side by side with the most modern high rises in this city of contrasts. The 7-square-block area, which contains the historic zone of Old San Juan, was once completely encircled by city walls and is still guarded by the impressive forts of El Morro and San Cristobal, which loom over the harbor as reminders of the centuries of Spanish rule. El Yunque rainforest, on the northeastern side of the island, is just one of many distinctive geographical features found here. Mountain lakes, waterfalls, teak forests, and three magnificent phosphorescent bays offer the visitor a variety of diversions.

A classic golden arc of sugary sand at South Friar’s Bay, Carambola is home to the island’s most luxurious beach clubs and restaurants. Umbrellas, loungers and optional water sports abound for those so inclined. Otherwise St. Kitts has other attractions, including a number of lovingly preserved plantation great houses, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Brimstone Hill Fortress and a scenic narrow gauge sugarcane railway.

The Caribbean’s verdant “Nature Island” has resolved not to succumb to the high-rise hotels and casino culture that predominate on some other islands. The tiny nation is determined to thrive on its natural resources, which are many and attractive. Water is one, and the island does export delicious mineral water throughout the area. There are also thermal springs and a “boiling lake,” as well as lovely waterfalls. Citrus fruits such as grapefruit are another export. The island is the source of Rose’s Lime Juice, a requisite of the perfect gimlet cocktail. Fragrant bay rum, distilled from native trees, is a handmade commodity much prized on the global market. Visit the peaceful Botanical Gardens, or ascend Morne Bruce for a stunning view over the town, the harbor and the sea beyond.

Les Trois-Îlets is a town on the Caribbean island of Martinique. It’s known as the birthplace of Joséphine, Napoléon Bonaparte’s first wife. Her family’s sugar plantation is now the Pagerie Museum, with childhood mementos and a love letter from Napoléon. Nearby, exhibits at the Maison de la Canne detail how sugar cane shaped Martinique’s history. North, Pointe du Bout is a water-sports hub with boutiques and cafes.

The port facility known as Kings Wharf is actually the revitalized Royal Navy Dockyard of Bermuda in Sandy’s Parish. The facility was first developed in 1809, after the British lost their mainland docking rights in the American Revolution. After the two World Wars, with the British and Americans allied, there was no need for a Royal Navy base, and the facility was closed. Today it is the main cruise ship port for the island. It has many attractions for visitors, including the Bermuda National Museum and many galleries, shops, restaurants and etc. There are a number of beaches nearby, including the famous Sea Glass Beach. The port is also the start point for tours of other Bermuda highlights such as Hamilton, St. George’s and the beaches.

Trinidad’s “little sister” Tobago welcomes you with a lovely fishing village set on a curve of beach on Man-o-war Bay. The town was founded in 1633, to serve the area’s slavery-enabled sugar production. Today fishing is the main business. Even by Caribbean standards, it is a sleepy place, where most visitors arrive to bask in the laid-back atmosphere, and swim, snorkel or dive in the surrounding waters. Nearby Pirate’s Bay is considered one of the Caribbean’s prettiest beaches, accessible by a long-sloping stairway or by boat. Speyside down the coast give access to the bird sanctuary of Little Tobago island just offshore. With luck, you may be treated to a musical performance by the local Tamboo band, who make music by banging lengths of bamboo on the ground, a relic of the slavery era. Otherwise, join the locals for “liming” (chatting) and enjoying fresh seafood, and stuffed rotis including the “Buss Up Shut” so named because the torn roti resembles a “busted up shirt.”

Barbados has retained many of the trappings of its British colonial heritage. Judges and barristers wear proper robes and wigs, police don helmets styled after London bobbies and cricket remains a national passion. Barbados also has all the sporting appeal of the rest of the Caribbean, with pristine beaches, powerful surf and crystal clear waters. Brightly colored homes and hibiscus flowers mingle with mahogany trees and English churches dating back to the 17th century.

Bequia’s Admiralty Bay is a favorite yachtsman’s anchorage. They ferry ashore to join the friendly, low-key locals “under the almond tree,” the chosen meeting place. Stroll along the Belmont Walkway to the Gingerbread for homemade nutmeg ice cream, or Frangipani, run by the daughter of a former prime minister. Continue to lovely, golden Princess Margaret Beach, or round the bend to Lower Bay. Don’t miss the excellent craftsmanship at the Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop, it’s a Bequia specialty.

The tiny archipelago of St. Pierre et Miquelon is a territorial overseas collectivity of France, just 16 miles from the coast of Newfoundland, but nearly 2,400 miles from continental France. The islands were unoccupied when a Portuguese explorer stumbled on them in 1520. But by the time Jacques Cartier claimed them for France in 1536 they were already being visited by Basque and Breton fisherman exploiting the fertile fishing grounds of the Grand Banks. The intermittent dominion and tenuous but tenacious history of the islands is explained at L’Arche Museum in St. Pierre. Suffice it to say that the British and the French quarreled over and ceded control between themselves for centuries. However the population remains mostly descendants of Basque, Breton and Norman fishermen. They speak a metropolitan, rather than Canadian form of French, and their customs, foodways and personalities are firmly Gallic. Stroll the sloping streets, marveling at the vividly colored houses with bright, contrasting trim. The economy of the islands has traced the roller-coaster path of the fishing industry, with a healthy surge during the American era of Prohibition, when whisky and wine smuggling thrived. Lashed by the North Atlantic winds and chilled by the cold Labrador Current, the islands have a severe beauty enhanced by panoramic seascapes.

Guadeloupe’s de facto capital is located near the narrow isthmus connecting the butterfly-shaped island’s two wings. Grand Terre is the larger wing, fringed with the sort of beaches that bring visitors to the Caribbean. The museum of Saint-John Perse is housed in an intact colonial-era mansion, and is dedicated to the Nobel Laureate Alexis Léger, whose nom de plume was St-John Perse. The house is a chance to see typical Creole domestic interiors of the period and find out more about his life and works. Recently opened to rave reviews is the Musée ACTe, a modern museum dedicated to the history and heritage of slavery in the Caribbean. It is the only museum of its kind in the world, explicating the effects of the institution in a clear-eyed and educational way.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Nevis was one of the richest colonies of Britain and a playground of the rich and famous. There are also many tales of chivalry and romance. Lord Nelson’s courtship of and idyllic marriage to the Nevisian beauty, Fanny Nisbett is a love story of international renown. The Jewish Cemetery is all that remains of the community, which settled in Nevis after being expelled from Brazil in the 17th century. Its members were valued merchants and are credited with introducing sugar production technology to the Leeward Islands. The sugarcane fields, which once covered the slopes of the island have long since disappeared, leaving the ruins of once busy sugar mills and luxurious great houses. These are the heritage of an era of prosperity when Nevis was known as the “Queen of the Caribbees.” Today, this is an island for relaxing and unwinding, with magnificent beaches and tiny hamlets with names like Chicken Stone or Hard Times, which tell their own story.

Antigua is blessed with an abundance of shining white beaches, and many of these have sprouted top-end resort hotels that engender golf courses and other amenities counted among the best in the Caribbean. A pleasant drive up through farms and tiny villages leads to the commanding fortress on Shirley Heights, from which you can survey the town and the harbor of Nelson’s Dockyard across the island. Once a carenage for British frigates, today it is an enclave of shops and restaurants.

A classic golden arc of sugary sand at South Friar’s Bay, Carambola is home to the island’s most luxurious beach clubs and restaurants. Umbrellas, loungers and optional water sports abound for those so inclined. Otherwise St. Kitts has other attractions, including a number of lovingly preserved plantation great houses, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Brimstone Hill Fortress and a scenic narrow gauge sugarcane railway.

Since 2010, Sint Maarten has been a constituent country within the kingdom of The Netherlands. It comprises the “Dutch Side” of the island of Saint-Martin, the other half being a French overseas territory. Philipsburg is its capital and a busy deep-water port city. It is a popular port for cruise ships, and consequently boasts a thriving duty-free shopping community, a range of resorts and villas, and numerous leisure and sightseeing activities, as well as a well-served airport.