Gems of the Caribbean

Since 2010, Sint Maarten has been a constituent country within the kingdom of The Netherlands. It comprises the “Dutch Side” of the island of Saint-Martin, the other half being a French overseas territory. Philipsburg is its capital and a busy deep-water port city. It is a popular port for cruise ships, and consequently boasts a thriving duty-free shopping community, a range of resorts and villas, and numerous leisure and sightseeing activities, as well as a well-served airport.

Anguilla’s name is based on the word for eel in several Romance languages, and its 17-mile length and three-mile width are appropriate to the analogy. The northernmost of the Leeward Islands chain, it is a British overseas territory. With its resources largely limited to an abundance of breathtaking beaches and coral reefs, the island’s main industries are tourism and the lucrative cultivation of offshore banking and insurance tax havens. Road Bay and its village of Sandy Ground comprise the main harbor for ships on the island, although the entire coastline is scalloped with lovely coves and anchorages that make it a magnet for yachtsmen. The official currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, although U.S. dollars are widely accepted. They might be well-spent on a luncheon of impeccably fresh seafood from the surrounding seas. There are no less than seven shipwrecks strewn along the island’s barrier reefs, which have made it the wreck-diving capital of the region.

A classic golden arc of sugary sand at South Friar’s Bay, Carambola is home to the island’s most luxurious beach clubs and restaurants. Umbrellas, loungers and optional water sports abound for those so inclined. Otherwise St. Kitts has other attractions, including a number of lovingly preserved plantation great houses, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Brimstone Hill Fortress and a scenic narrow gauge sugarcane railway.

The Caribbean’s verdant “Nature Island” has resolved not to succumb to the high-rise hotels and casino culture that predominate on some other islands. The tiny nation is determined to thrive on its natural resources, which are many and attractive. Water is one, and the island does export delicious mineral water throughout the area. There are also thermal springs and a “boiling lake,” as well as lovely waterfalls. Citrus fruits such as grapefruit are another export. The island is the source of Rose’s Lime Juice, a requisite of the perfect gimlet cocktail. Fragrant bay rum, distilled from native trees, is a handmade commodity much prized on the global market. Visit the peaceful Botanical Gardens, or ascend Morne Bruce for a stunning view over the town, the harbor and the sea beyond.

The Iles des Saintes, a tiny cluster of islets off the southern coast of Guadeloupe is what the doctor ordered, if he ordered an unspoiled Caribbean experience. No franchise duty free, no big hotels, no casinos. It is what much of the Caribbean used to be like. Stroll around the little town of Bourg de Saintes. Shop for real French cosmetics from the sidewalk vendors. Grab a seat and a beer and revel in the weather and the pace of the past.

Fort-de-France, Martinique’s capital, with its narrow streets and iron grill-worked balconies, brings to mind New Orleans or Nice. This distinctly French island is a full-fledged department of France, with members in parliament and the senate. Naturally, everyone speaks French, as well as a rapid-fire Creole. The island features a varied landscape, from quiet beaches to lush rain forest to imposing Mont Pelee. Not surprisingly, the shopping in Fort-de-France has a decidedly Gallic flair. Bienvenue to this bit of France in the Caribbean.

Barbados has retained many of the trappings of its British colonial heritage. Judges and barristers wear proper robes and wigs, police don helmets styled after London bobbies and cricket remains a national passion. Barbados also has all the sporting appeal of the rest of the Caribbean, with pristine beaches, powerful surf and crystal clear waters. Brightly colored homes and hibiscus flowers mingle with mahogany trees and English churches dating back to the 17th century.

Bequia’s Admiralty Bay is a favorite yachtsman’s anchorage. They ferry ashore to join the friendly, low-key locals “under the almond tree,” the chosen meeting place. Stroll along the Belmont Walkway to the Gingerbread for homemade nutmeg ice cream, or Frangipani, run by the daughter of a former prime minister. Continue to lovely, golden Princess Margaret Beach, or round the bend to Lower Bay. Don’t miss the excellent craftsmanship at the Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop, it’s a Bequia specialty.

The tiny archipelago of St. Pierre et Miquelon is a territorial overseas collectivity of France, just 16 miles from the coast of Newfoundland, but nearly 2,400 miles from continental France. The islands were unoccupied when a Portuguese explorer stumbled on them in 1520. But by the time Jacques Cartier claimed them for France in 1536 they were already being visited by Basque and Breton fisherman exploiting the fertile fishing grounds of the Grand Banks. The intermittent dominion and tenuous but tenacious history of the islands is explained at L’Arche Museum in St. Pierre. Suffice it to say that the British and the French quarreled over and ceded control between themselves for centuries. However the population remains mostly descendants of Basque, Breton and Norman fishermen. They speak a metropolitan, rather than Canadian form of French, and their customs, foodways and personalities are firmly Gallic. Stroll the sloping streets, marveling at the vividly colored houses with bright, contrasting trim. The economy of the islands has traced the roller-coaster path of the fishing industry, with a healthy surge during the American era of Prohibition, when whisky and wine smuggling thrived. Lashed by the North Atlantic winds and chilled by the cold Labrador Current, the islands have a severe beauty enhanced by panoramic seascapes.

Guadeloupe’s de facto capital is located near the narrow isthmus connecting the butterfly-shaped island’s two wings. Grand Terre is the larger wing, fringed with the sort of beaches that bring visitors to the Caribbean. The museum of Saint-John Perse is housed in an intact colonial-era mansion, and is dedicated to the Nobel Laureate Alexis Léger, whose nom de plume was St-John Perse. The house is a chance to see typical Creole domestic interiors of the period and find out more about his life and works. Recently opened to rave reviews is the Musée ACTe, a modern museum dedicated to the history and heritage of slavery in the Caribbean. It is the only museum of its kind in the world, explicating the effects of the institution in a clear-eyed and educational way.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Nevis was one of the richest colonies of Britain and a playground of the rich and famous. There are also many tales of chivalry and romance. Lord Nelson’s courtship of and idyllic marriage to the Nevisian beauty, Fanny Nisbett is a love story of international renown. The Jewish Cemetery is all that remains of the community, which settled in Nevis after being expelled from Brazil in the 17th century. Its members were valued merchants and are credited with introducing sugar production technology to the Leeward Islands. The sugarcane fields, which once covered the slopes of the island have long since disappeared, leaving the ruins of once busy sugar mills and luxurious great houses. These are the heritage of an era of prosperity when Nevis was known as the “Queen of the Caribbees.” Today, this is an island for relaxing and unwinding, with magnificent beaches and tiny hamlets with names like Chicken Stone or Hard Times, which tell their own story.

Antigua is blessed with an abundance of shining white beaches, and many of these have sprouted top-end resort hotels that engender golf courses and other amenities counted among the best in the Caribbean. A pleasant drive up through farms and tiny villages leads to the commanding fortress on Shirley Heights, from which you can survey the town and the harbor of Nelson’s Dockyard across the island. Once a carenage for British frigates, today it is an enclave of shops and restaurants.

A classic golden arc of sugary sand at South Friar’s Bay, Carambola is home to the island’s most luxurious beach clubs and restaurants. Umbrellas, loungers and optional water sports abound for those so inclined. Otherwise St. Kitts has other attractions, including a number of lovingly preserved plantation great houses, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Brimstone Hill Fortress and a scenic narrow gauge sugarcane railway.

Since 2010, Sint Maarten has been a constituent country within the kingdom of The Netherlands. It comprises the “Dutch Side” of the island of Saint-Martin, the other half being a French overseas territory. Philipsburg is its capital and a busy deep-water port city. It is a popular port for cruise ships, and consequently boasts a thriving duty-free shopping community, a range of resorts and villas, and numerous leisure and sightseeing activities, as well as a well-served airport.